Follow Woody: Road Trip - Larnaca, Pyla, Agia Napa, Cape Greco/Protaras, Derynia

Last Sunday we went on another road trip. This time however, we fled toward the south coast to explore a variety of cities and sites in the southeast of the island.

LARNACA

We began the day in Larnaca very near to the international airport at the Larnaca Salt Lake. Although the lake looks like a lake normal lake right now, during the summer months the water evaporates and the area becomes a shimmering desert of salt. The lake is also said to host large numbers of migratory birds at certain parts of the year, but none were around on this day.

Larnaca Salt Lake in the summer.

Other side of the main road near the Salt Lake. An airport and its drainage.

On the far side of the lake is the Hala Sultan Tekke, an oasis of palm trees, a minaret, and domes. Legend has it that this important monument is the site where the prophet Muhammad’s wet nurse fell off of a mule, broke her neck and then died. Her grave became a shrine that is within the mausoleum which is connected to a mosque. The entire complex, or Tekke, is the Muslim version of a convent and all of it was preserved under the auspices of the United Nations Development Programme.

Hala Sultan Tekke across the Larnaca Salt Lake

PYLA
Next we visited a city called Pyla. The village is unique because it remains a mixed population of Greek and Turkish Cypriots and exists within the United Nations-controlled Buffer Zone. The juxtaposing features of the small town such as minarets, bell towers, and multi-lingual signs tell the story of Cyprus that hasn’t existed for decades. However, daily life is carried out under the banner of the United Nations peacekeeping forces, which is prominently positioned at the center of the main square.

AGIA NAPA

From Pyla we continued to the touristy city of Agia Napa. Since “Sea and Sun” (and partying) tourists are generally non-existent on Cyprus at this time of the year, the city is dead. The dozens of hotels that line the sandy shores are vacant and the shops lining the streets are closed. There is literally no life here when tourists aren’t around. Even when the tourists are around, I argue that this is the most unfortunate portrait Cyprus can offer. The island has so much richer than the “love” boats, bad food, and clubs.

Boy playing in the sand during the off season at Agia Napa

Speaking of bad food, we tried the fish meze at a place called Vassos Fish Tavern (recommended by the Lonely Planet guidebook). The mural above the outdoor seating (not pictured) which overlooks the harbor portrays fishermen taking in nets and a birth date of 1962, which I interpreted as being representative of freshness and tradition… Two things that we thought sounded like a recipe for success. We couldn’t have been more wrong. Every piece of seafood came straight out of the frozen section of the nearest grocery store. Spongy breaded cod “fillets”, chewy octopus, and bitter hummus are my memories of the meal. If I had to order again, I would opt for their salad, toast, and drinks.

We probably should have guessed by the look of the restaurant that it would be a bad meal.

The restaurant even cages up miserable pelicans like this one!

CAPE GRECO

We continued toward Cape Greco, the southeast tip of the island, in search of the sea caves that line the shores of Cyprus. This area is absolutely beautiful despite the chilly temperatures at this time of year. Some pictures of what this area looks like during the summer can be found here.

The only downside about Cape Greco is that you can't access the absolutely point because of British antenna's. I was disturbed that the sign asks us to keep the park clean while the British armed forces are able to pollute our view.