Tuesday, June 31st - Mount Athos!

Today we took a boat along the coast of the Mount Athos peninsula. For both Byzantine and monastic life, this area is extremely important. At the same time as the beginning of Mount Athos monasteries, in the middle and late Byzantine times, the founder of Mt. Menoikeion, Ktetor (founder) Ioannikios, decided against joining Mount Athos and to instead attempt to start his own complex inland (we have nicknamed this trip, “Inland Athos” as a result). However, this area along the coast of northern Greece (the eastern-most “finger” of the three finger peninsulas, closest to Turkey) became very popular as a place to practice monastic orthodox life (both solitarily, ascetic, or communally, coenobitic), and many complexes were built in the area, making it a religious stronghold. To this day these complexes are run by monks (a rarity in this day as many have been converted into use by nuns), and Orthodoxy thrives. It is a popular spot to visit by religious pilgrims, those interested in understanding monastic life, and historians. However, the entire peninsula is closed off to females, and any male interested in visiting the island may only stay four days and must be planned well in advance as a special permit is required and only a specific number of people are allowed in the area at once.

Taking a tour along the western coast of the peninsula made me realize that this is a sight I must see one day. The other two male students on the trip had each been there and said it was an absolutely incredible. The serenity, history, purity, and interesting social complex that is monastic life are all present in a small secluded area that would allow me time to understand more, but also reflect as I did at the monastery over the last week. After I travel to Meteora in approximately a month and a half, I assume the motivation for this trip will be even stronger.

On the three hour drive back to Mt. Menoikeion, we stopped for lunch at a beachside taverna in Stagiera, which is the birthplace of Aristotle! The water was beautiful and there was almost nobody on the beach. This would be a good place to get away for a while yet be close to monumental sights in northern Greece.