Saturday, August 15, 2009

Monday, August 10th - Cypriot Reflection

As I move on to the next part of my journey, let me leave you with a poem that I hope you all listen to or read (see below). Though the video is read by Sean Connery to the backdrop of music and ridiculous images of colorful sunsets and Buddhist monks, this poem in its pure form is one that I think about often when writing my proposals, planning a trip, and now as I continue on with my current journey. It’s written by C.P. Cavafy, who was a modern Greek poet living in Alexandria, Egypt during the Greek fight for independence and, for me, this poem represents the way to look at all adventures as I move through life…

“Ithaka” by C.P. Cavafy (Translated by E. Keeley & P. Sherrard)

As you set out for Ithaka
hope your road is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
angry Poseidon-don't be afraid of them:
you'll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
wild Poseidon-you won't encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope your road is a long one.
May there be many summer mornings when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you enter harbors you're seeing for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind as
many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to learn and go on learning from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you're destined for.
But don't hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you're old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you've gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.
Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you wouldn't have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.

And if you find her poor, Ithaka won't have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you'll have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1n3n2Ox4Yfk

I’ve been fortunate thus far in finding every last moment of my travels something new and interesting for me. However, I’m convinced that it’s this mentality that I take into every trip that allows for me to feel this way. With the exception of research and class obligations, I have had no expectations for myself when I go to a place. I (usually) do some reading on the place before and now have started using guide books for help, but regardless of how much I read or view a place beforehand, the first hand experience of a place is absolutely required if you intend on learning from it whatsoever. I studied the “Cyprus Problem” for almost an entire year before having the opportunity to get there, and I will never forget the first time I saw the green line/buffer zone/military posts… I had seen pictures in the past, but to be surrounded by buildings that have literally been frozen in time for 35 years as barracks, manned by real life soldiers standing guard, feeling the dirt sweep over the dark concrete by my legs as it radiates the sun back up at my face, and hearing the sound of a city still moving behind me; I felt that I had started completely fresh.

I leave Cyprus feeling accomplished. I spent many hours attempting to truly understand this place, which Lawrence Durrell (author of Bitter Lemons of Cyprus) says would take two years minimum, and could be a decade. Towards the end of our stay most people had gone off to holiday (most people in Cyprus leave for the last few weeks in August to the point that it’s a ghost town) which did allow us to get extreme amounts of work done, but didn’t allow us to continue the full Cypriot experience (unless heat is the experience because it was in the 40’s every day!). The data has been collected by meeting everyone I planned on and more as well as taking all the necessary photographs for my continued work to go smoothly.





























Goodbye for now Cyprus (and your Souvla, Kleftiko, Sheftalia, Haloumi, and Karpousi [watermelon] – just a few of the great foods)…

Next Ithaka: Jerusalem

Saturday, August 8th - Famagusta

Today we took a day trip to Famagusta, which was historically one of the great port cities in the Mediterranean. The city now lies in the occupied region in the north of Cyprus, while some of it also remains in the UN controlled buffer zone. The part occupied by Turkish troops is another fortified city (surrounded by masonry walls) like Nicosia, but not a regular circle with evenly spaced bastions. After taking an hour bus ride, we arrived on the coast and were immediately shocked at what we found. What we originally expected to be beach resort town immediately outside of the walls (which apparently does exist as a ghost resort town in the UN occupied zone) soon became a raw architectural history lesson. As you can see from the image, within the old city walls lie archaeological and architectural gems. Byzantine churches, old covered markets, as well as Crusader and Gothic Cathedrals create the skyline of the city and beg to be discovered. Soon, however, we realized/remembered that although these monuments are still standing, their accessibility and current state are not exactly as they were upon construction… The main the Gothic Cathedral has now been turned into the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque, while others remain locked up (Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul) or wide open to the elements (St. George of the Greeks).

However, in their current state, these churches are not on the top of most tourists’ lists and provide excellent examples from building techniques all throughout the history of Cyprus, the Mediterranean, as well as Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. My worry is that as the division of Cyprus continues, so will the deterioration of these precious monuments.




Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Tuesday, August 4th - Moving Day!!!

Yesterday we moved into a student hostel for the final week of research. It is perfectly located in the Chrysaliniotissa neighborhood, which is one of my case studies to determine the success of the Nicosia Master Plan in the revitalization of the old city. This was part of the Nicosia Master Plan, and is run by the University of Cyprus. It is an incredibly peaceful place to stay, with the arcade of arches surrounding the interior courtyard, and the peace and quiet of being positioned right next to the buffer zone! Also, we are two of the three total people living there right now so there are no distractions… What more could I ask for?